Paul
Goble
Staunton, January 14 – Russia’s
300-plus urban centers known as “monogorods” or “company towns” where the vast
majority of the population have been the subject of episodic discussions
typically triggered when the chief firm closes down, the population is
impoverished, and protests arise.
Then, these places where more than
ten percent of the population of the Russian Federation live are generally
ignored, a situation which means that instead of their problems being
addressed, the difficulties they have been facing continue to fester and
intensify, pointing to more problems ahead.
Now that oligarch Vladimir Potanin
has raised the possibility that he will close his Norilsk Nickel factory, the
“city-forming enterprise” of Norilsk in northern Russia, that city is
attracting more interest and that interest in turn is sparking discussions
about the broader problems of the remaining company towns.
In the current and first
Internet-only issue of “Kommersant-Vlast,” Yuliya Paskevich and Olga Gakhokidze
paint a chilling portrait of Norilsk as a company town now at risk and extend
their comments to the state of play in the other “monogorods” of the Russian
Federation (kommersant.ru/doc/3192717).
The two journalists begin their
article by pointing out that the Yabloko Party has not had a representative
office in Norilsk since 2012 because plane travel, the only way to get to the
city all but a few months of the year when the rivers unfreeze and navigation
becomes possible, is simply too expensive for the opposition party to afford.
But the absence of an office in
Norilsk doesn’t appear to have hurt Yabloko that much: in the last elections,
it garnered almost exactly the same percentage of the vote – less than one –
that it did nationally; and it failed to elect anyone to the city council which
is overwhelmingly dominated by United Russia.
Paskevich and Gakhokidze suggest
that the party divisions on which outsiders place so much importance don’t mean
much in Norilsk where deputies from opposition parties routinely cooperate with
the party of power and vice versa without much regard to who is in what
organization.
Norilsk’s population has been
politically inert for most of the post-Soviet period with participation rates
in elections “extremely low, local political scientist Aleksandr Kynyev says. When
they did vote, Norilsk residents tended to vote “against all” as a way of
protesting how difficult their lives had become and how little Moscow had done
for them.
“For all
of its history,” the two journalists say, “Norilsk was a monogorod,” first as a
camp – of its 77,000 residents in 1953, 68,000 were GULAG prisoners or special
settlers – and then as a city organized around the Norilsk nickel combinat. And
it was that conglomerate that made things happen, something that hasn’t changed
entirely after 1991.
The
company now subsidizes many things, including food; but it is limited in what
it can do. Food prices are extremely high, there is little competition among
consumer businesses, and despite promises, Norilsk still does not have a fiber-optic
line to provide it with high-speed Internet connectivity.
Many
residents seek to leave. During the last year, 1400 did so. One of the unique
aspects of the city’s demography is that business programs which support the
relocation back to Russian cities mean that many of the city’s oldest residents
are the first to go. As a result, the city has a very low death rate and an
average age of 33.
But
young people also seek to leave: jobs at Norilsk Nickel are uncertain, there is
no high-quality university there, and the city is one of the most
environmentally awful places in Russia. It now ranks sixth in terms of
atmospheric contamination, something that is unlikely to change unless Norilsk
Nickel closes.
“Many
view Norilsk as a place for work but not for living,” the two journalists say,
who report that residents told them that people there “try to save money while
they are in the city and then spend it when they go on vacation.” And many try
to buy apartments in Russian cities to the south, on what they call “the
continent” of Russia.
Norilsk
is very different than many Russian cities, however. No one can forget or
forgive what Stalin did because signs of that are all around there. As a
result, no one is talking about putting up a bust of Stalin. And in other ways
too, the journalists continue, Norilsk residents are at odds and maybe behind
trends elsewhere.
There
is now a biker club of the kind Vladimir Putin favors, but it is small – there are
no roads out of town – and far less active than those in other Russian cities.
It does get grants from Norilsk Nickel and is currently using one of them to
try to prevent interethnic tensions from exploding into violence.
Norilsk
has always been cut off from the rest of the country, but six months from now,
it will be even more so, Paskevich
and Gakhokidze say. That is because
current plans call for cutting the number of seats on flights between Norilsk
and anywhere else by 50 percent. When that happens, the two observe, there will
be yet another reason for residents think of themselves as being on an island
quite separate from “the continent” of Russia.
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