Paul
Goble
Staunton, March 4 – It is an ancient
observation that people who live in port cities or in portions of a country
bordering others are often very different than those who live in the interior
of the country, often simultaneously more aware of their own identity but also
profoundly affected by the culture and style of those they come into contact
with.
But this pattern is seldom discussed
by Russians not only because until recently few of them lived in places where
they could actually cross the borders and thus be affected by others and
because many are clearly reluctant to point to yet another way in which Russian
identity, supposedly so strong in the Kremlin’s telling, is actually weak and
fissiparous.
In an article in Novaya
gazeta, Leningrad oblast resident Anatasiya Mironova says that
nowhere do Russians take more pride in putting their appearance in order than
when crossing the border into European countries. They don’t want to be put to
shame by the quality of life of the Europeans or worse not allowed in (novayagazeta.ru/articles/2017/02/27/71629-esli-by-ne-finny).
But this behavior
doesn’t stop when they cross or recross the borders, she continues. Russians
who return from visiting the Baltic countries take better care of their yards,
clean up the trash, and make sure that their houses are painted well. Moreover,
the closer they are to the border, the more they are inclined to behave that
way.
“Perhaps, therefore, the most
well-appointed Russian regions are those at the border. There where people
often go to Europe.” Even between the
northern part of Leningrad oblast and its southern section there is a huge
difference in how Russians behave. Even
in impoverished Pskov oblast, those near the border dress better.
And in Kaliningrad, even the
homeless appear well-dressed, she adds.
Until recently, almost two million
Petersburg residents visited Finland at least once a year – that is “about half
of the working-age population.” Now,
they don’t have the money to do so because of the economic crisis; but they
still are affected by their image of what is appropriate in Finland – and that
guides their actions even when they don’t travel.
Mironova says she would not be
surprised to find out that “in fact in Finland there exists a secret program
for bringing Russians up to snuff. Who wants to live alongside a neighbor who
isn’t concerned with his own home? Nobody.” And the Finns have played a huge
role in transforming Russians in the northwestern part of the country.
“Finland has trained us to eat
better foods! In Petersburg as in Kaliningrad and Pskov, there is a lot less
bad food being sold than in central Russia.” People know what fresh milk is and
expect it, and these expectations affect what is sold even in parts of the city
where people travel compared to those where they don’t.
“What would Peterssburg be like if
it weren’t 200 kilometers from Finland? And what would be our entire country
which now is ruled by people from Petersburg be like as well? There are few who
have done as much for Russia as today’s Finns. For thanks to Finland, we have
federal officials who from their youth know European cleanliness, manners, and
quality.”
If those in power in Moscow had come
not from Petersburg but from Yaroslavl or Kirov, she concludes, “I fear we
would all have to begin to weep.”
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