Paul Goble
Staunton,
September 30 – Most Russians live in cities, ranging from the megalopolis of
Moscow to oblast centers and company towns, but there is “a fourth Russia,” the
Russia of the villages that is “little different from the countries of ‘the
third world’ and shows what the country has become, Vladimir Maltsev says.
“To
the dying little towns of Tver Oblast and the half-abandoned villages of
Vologda, no one goes,” he says. “There is no reason to [except] that only by
doing so can one understand what our (their) country is becoming,” the blogger
says (prosto-vova.livejournal.com/3293006.html
reposted at newizv.ru/news/society/29-09-2018/pashnya-u-kvartiry-neskolko-faktov-o-nikomu-ne-nuzhnoy-glubinke).
These places show
that Russia is “like a termite-infested house – everything is beautiful from
the outside; but inside is decay and rot … an entirely different world” where
almost all the comforts, goods or even values many in the big cities assume are
normal don’t exist except by the accidental arrival of outsiders.
There are no roads, only paths, and
people use horses or tractors, not cars – and what vehicles exist are as old as
the grandparents one sees. And for the
residents, those who visit from the outside – and such people are rare enough –
look like “extraterrestrials well-dressed, sober, in big cars and smiling.” In
this other Russia, “there aren’t any people like that.”
All the houses are collapsing, and
there is trash everywhere, trash that the residents do not even bother to take
very far from their doorways, Maltsev says.
People say “Stalin took the country with a plow and left it with an atom
bomb.” But here people still have the plow, and that “bomb” lies under the country,
the bomb of “complete degradation.”
There are still the guard towers of
the GULAG even though they too have been abandoned, silent reminders of what
was and of what Russia has still not escaped, however much the glitter of the cities
suggests otherwise. The people of these Russian villages live “outside of time”
and serve as both a reminder and a warning, although few take note of it.
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