Paul
Goble
Staunton, September 17 – A half
century ago, at the height of the Cold War, an American newsmagazine carried a
story on how Soviet slogans might be rewritten if the task of preparing them
were to be turned over to Madison Avenue. The one that has remained most firmly
imbedded in this writer’s mind was “Visit Moscow during Execution Season.”
Today, Yana Amelina, a specialist on
the North Caucasus, has published an article prompting one to recall this
earlier suggestion. In 2019, she says, “the
North Caucasus has been experiencing a real tourist boom” with hotels full not
only at the most desirable destinations but at others as well (kavkazoved.info/news/2019/09/17/turisticheskij-bum-na-severnom-kavkaze-kogda-gory-darjat-radost-fotoreportazh.html).
Chechnya and Daghestan, which had
been laggards in this regard because of concerns about security, are now
attracting more tourists than ever before. Only a few years ago, they were being
visited only by military personnel or by relatives of people living there from nearby
republics. But now things have changed dramatically.
Nearly every day, Amelina says, large
groups and individuals are making their way to “the most surprising and difficult
to reach places of North Ossetia” and other republics. Tourists are coming to Chechnya and not just
Grozny but to the mountainous regions as well, especially to the new mosque at
Shali and the delightful Kerzenoi-Am Lake.
“Who are all these people?” the analyst
asks. “Are they perhaps wealthy Muscovites? There are some of those, but the overwhelming
majority of those who book such tours are local people” who want to see the
regions around them.
“Of course, it is still a long way t
the revival of mass tourism of the times of the late USSR,” she acknowledges. But
it is “an enormous and underrated plus” that people are beginning to view the
mountains of the North Caucasus not as places where special operations are
being carried out but as tourist destinations.
Amelina provides no statistics to
back up her claim of a tourist “boom” in the region, but her comments are
significant not just in terms of the decline in violence in this region but
also and even more in the ways in which people adapt to even the most difficult
conditions and view any easing of them as a breakthrough and occasion for
celebration.
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