Paul
Goble
Staunton, February 22 – As elsewhere
in the Russian Federation, people are leaving rural areas in the North Caucasus
and adjoining areas, leaving villages deserted or half-deserted, undercutting
prospects for agricultural growth, and changing the security situation in many
places. Indeed, in many of these places, the only things that remain are cemeteries.
In an article on Kavpolit.com today,
Nikolay Kucherov reports that there are now 171 dead villages in the North
Caucasus Federal district and 80 more in which there are ten or fewer residents
and that in the neighboring South Russian Federal District, the corresponding
figures are 140 and 270 (kavpolit.com/articles/poslednie_iz_mogikan-14311/).
The journalist says he decided to
visit “one of the last of the Mohicans,” his term for those who remain in the
half-forgotten and almost-completely-deserted villages in the southern section
of Krasnodar kray, even though he had been warned that there were no roads,
even though they continue to be shown on most maps.
Together with a group of archivist
enthusiasts, Kucherov went by paved road, then dirt road and finally a barely
marked track to the Udovno-Porkovsky village, which no longer has electricity
or water because people earlier stole and sold the metal, and which does not have Internet access either.
What
it does have, he discovered, are a large number of ruined buildings where
almost no one lives anymore but where those who do remain committed to the
agricultural life they have practiced and continue to practice despite all the
difficulties, including cattle rustlers and other thieves, and provides milk
and other products to urban areas.
Thirty
years ago, there were 500 people there, a collective farm, two schools, and an
entire community. Now, there is a handful, and many of them clearly fear that
in the future there will be “nothing except a cemetery,” Kucherov says.
The
Russian village, only three kilometers from the border with
Karachayevo-Cherkessia, has always had good relations with its neighbors there,
helping them out when needed and being helped out in return. But those with that kind of experience of
cooperation are disappearing along with the village.
One
remaining resident acknowledged that “now a different generation has come” and
does not remember such things.
Veterinarians
still come to the village, residents say. But when asked what is the most
difficult thing in their lives, one of them responded “roads” – or more
precisely the lack of the integuments which would link them to the cities and
to the rest of the world and which could save their way of life.
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